David and I struck out on our own from the group this afternoon. We started by figuring out how to add money to the transit card that a member of our group loaned us. After watching several other riders we were successful and boarded the tram for a ride to the end of the line near Taksim Square. The trams are very modern. We happened to get on near the front and got a clear view of the driver through a large clear window in the front of the tram.
After the tram we took a very short ride up an underground funicular (sorry I didn't get a picture) that took us to the top of a steep hill and put us out in Taksim square.
The square was filled with people shopping, driving, sightseeing, going about their daily business. There were some protestors, many of which seemed to be engaged in interviews with the media. We could see policemen and vehicles standing in front of this cultural center building (which is scheduled to be torn down in order to build a mall - one of a variety of issues that the people seem to be protesting about). The police were not particularly uptight and we did not feel at risk at all. Gezi park was visible on the edge of the square, but was in the direction we were headed, so we didn't walk that way.
It was really startling to be here on site where the news has been reporting on for the past few weeks. At each visit with hosts in different cities I've taken the occasion to visit with people about their views on the protests (Turks love to talk politics!) I've heard a variety of views, some more sympathetic than others toward the protestors. Even those who disagree with their views note that this is a democracy and they have a right to protest, they just have to do so within the law and not as hooligans damaging property and threatening the police and other people.
This visit has made clear to me that Americans know almost nothing about Turkey and have very erroneous views about the country as a whole. I think we often tend to equate Turkey with its neighboring states when it really does not have that much in common with them. Turks speak Turkish not Arabic, they have been part of the Ottoman Empire for centuries, which controlled many of the neighboring states. They were never under European mandate after WWI like much of the Middle East and they have had a real democratic government with competitive multiparty elections for decades. The fact that the country is 99% Islamic is not the primary characteristic that defines the country and its international priorities, it is just one of many factors that come into play just like everywhere else. Although there is poverty within the country, there is also significant development and modernization and a notable entrepreneurial, future looking drive among the people.
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