For our last day, we made plans to take a short train ride to Avila (about 1.5 hrs outside of Madrid). We were supposed to take a train directly from the station in Madrid, but I woke up to a notification that the train would leave from another station at the end of a commuter rail line and we were supposed to meet the train at that new stop. I wasn't sure how often the commuter line ran or how much time we'd need to find our train at a new location, so we tried to leave early and just missed one of the commuter trains. In the end, it was a good thing. I checked with one of the agents and they communicated that another (special?) train would be taking us up the line to meet the connecting train to Avila. First she said 9:07, then 9:21, and by 9:25 I was really nervous/curious about what was happening because nothing was posted on the connection board at all. Finally she told us Track 2 and a whole group of people jumped up and boarded the train that had just come in (presumably others who had been planning to take the original Avila train). We were supposed to take it to the end of the line and transfer (according to my email message), but the agent who was riding with us hustled us all off the train a few stops early. We followed the crowd and crossed the platform to board another train. I confirmed as we boarded that this was for Avila. We looked that the route map on the TV monitor and Avila was one of many stops, so we took a seat and planned to make slow progress toward Avila. To my surprise, the TV screen blanked and we didn't make a single stop until we got to Avila. I guess this was a special train scheduled for those of us who planned to make the original trip. If I had tried to get to the end of the line station early, I would have missed this particular train entirely. Once again, this example is why I get nervous taking trains.
We had expected to arrive in Avila to this sight of the city walls, but we arrived on the other side of town away from this historic district.
One picture from the train. I was really struck by how it looked like all the color was baked out of the landscape except deep yellow and dark green.
We made our way through the town to the historic district. We couldn't immediately find our way onto the walls, which we knew were walkable, but we did spot the cathedral, so we started there instead. From the outside, I wasn't super impressed. The stonework reminded me of cinder blocks mortared together. It almost looked unfinished.
The interior walls were similarly simple stone blocks, but the vaulted arches were very pretty. At first I thought maybe there was not worship taking place in this space because there were no pews, but they are further forward in the nave. The choir loft is directly beyond the stone facade you can see in the middel of the main nave.
This is one of two side naves.
This was a beautiful carved stone panel with three scenes from Jesus' life.
This was his birth with the arrival of the Magi. Two of them are portrayed as black with a different kind of stone used for their face and hands. It was really striking compared to the uniformity of the rest of the scene.
The high alter. After seeing a lot of painting in churches that are dark and degraded, it was nice to see this vibrantly colored pieces that were well lit.
The organ and choir loft
The rosette window in the transept. The worship space with pews. This made the space more intimate than filling the entire nave with pews when fewer people might be worshipping. The choir loft is behind these pews along with the organ.
This sculpture was in the apse behind the alter
With this close up, you can see the detailed sculpted work
Much of the cathedral is built of grey granite (the cinder block parts), but there were parts that included "blood stone" which is limestone with iron oxide in it that causes red swirls in the stone. At first I thought it was painted on to look like marble, but the red swirls are natural to the stone.
From this model, you can see how the walls of the cathedral directly join the fortress walls around the city.
From the inside, you can see the different stone work. In the foreground is the city wall. It has large gaps between the rocks that need to be regularly (re)sealed. To the left, you can see the more regular stonework of the cathedral walls.
There is a lovely courtyard area attached to the cathedral. Apparently pigeons LOVE this space. There is mesh between every window opening to try to keep them from nesting in the vaults.
After the cathedral, we went in search of access to walk the old walls. We stumbled upon the city square with a farmers market going on. The line for the fresh olives was by far the longest, but there were lots of fresh choices.
Looking down an alley, you can see the old wall in the distance.
You could take stairs up to some of the ramparts. They were BIG steps. You can see they go up to Charlene's knees!
Mountains in the distance
In one part of the old city, the wealthy families with mason backing the walls were responsible for defending that section of the wall. You can see the door that opens out onto the wall for easy access.
Where the wall and cathedral are joined
Although we really wanted to try the local pastry: Yemas de Avila, every single store was shut down in the afternoon so the best we could do was flan at a local cafe. It was also good, but I've tasted flan before...
It was like a ghost town in the afternoon with nearly everything closed and no one on the streets. Given the heat, I can understand this, but it was still weird to experience.
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